August 10 - 12, 2008: South Pacific Asau, Savai’i, Western Samoa (S 13.30 W 172.39) http://maps.google.com/maps

Again most of the commentary and photos to follow come from Dave Berke’s blog. These are mostly his words and pictures that I’ve edited to reflect my experience. It took two days to make the passage from Apria to Asau. As I said earlier Asau had the reputation of being the “unspoiled yachtie’s paradise” of Western Samoa. The entrance of Asau Harbor on first impression coming from offshore is by far one of the most intimidating we’d ever seen. That’s a shipwreck on the right of the channel entrance fairly high and almost dry deep within breaking water. Then, to the left of that is the channel’s entrance. It is barely marked. The operative word is “barely”. Our first attempt to enter to the left of the shipwreck put us in very shallow water and we just touched the bottom. We immediately turned around and headed back the way we came in. The inside of this bay is green water and the bottom cannot be seen like in clear blue water. So, we could not see the hazards. Outside the entrance we called another boat on the hook inside and got some guidance. With their tips and our GPS we made for the entrance. At first it appeared dangerous but once we got between the breaking waves the deep water of the short channel was more visible. Unfortunately, you have to commit to make this entry and only then do you realize it is actually safe. But, come on, white water is white water and it’s worse when it is on both sides and you can hear it, see it….

Once inside the entrance and swinging on the hook things tend to settle way down. Making sure the hook is set, the anchor line snubbed and systems powered down all that is left to do is turn on the anchor light. Without leaving the boat we try to do some re-con of what’s available on shore and this shore looks pretty sparse. In other words, not many structures, lots of coconut trees and an empty bay except for us and two other sailboats. I guess that’s the definition of a “unspoiled yachtie’s paradise”.

We had to get special governmental permission to visit Asau when we were in Apia. In the picture above the local government official came to collect the letter in his dugout canoe. I’m not sure what he would have made us do if we had not produced the letter. He paddled from his home on the shore in this carved wooden outrigger, bailing at the same time, and met me at the transom and took the letter. We inquired about buses and car rentals and are told the buses don’t go where we want to go. He then offered his brother-in-law as a tour guide if we pay him $200 WST (Western Samoa Tala). For that he will drive us around the island wherever we want to go. This was early in the morning and we told him we’d be by later to do the driving tour.

We landed the dinghy at the only safe spot we could find and began the walk to make our connection for the tour. We looked at flowers, pigs, stuff… it was going so well, and then…

We heard some rustling in the bush off the side of the road and out popped…

A wild native! We froze in our tracks and tried not to make eye contact or any movements that might set him off. After all he was carrying a machete and it looked like he knew how to use it.

Fearing for our lives we quickly strategized and pushed Bob into harm’s way. Look closely he’s packing heat with that full water bottle and they are both sizing each other up.

The little terror came to his senses and realized we might have been a bit too much for him to take on. That and some Bazooka bubble gum sent him on his way to go back to playing with his friends.

We noticed in Western Samoa there are many man-made swimming pools that are open to the community and usually filled with water and people. The guy that took the paperwork has a house right on the beach and sticking with tradition has a grave and monument in his front yard of his father. Interesting, he does not have a car but he has a cell phone and an adorable daughter.

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Having spent four days in Asau exploring the whole island and trading with the natives, we decided to take advantage of the good weather and make the three -day passage to Wallis Island. Western Samoa was great but the poverty starts to get to you after a while. In the rural areas folks are basically living on what they can grow and the largess of international aid.