May 12, 2008: South Pacific

Cook’s Bay (S 17 08.1 W 149 28.9) http://maps.google.com/maps

It took three days to make the 195 mile passage from Rangiroa to Cook’s Bay on the island of Moorea. We had heard that Moorea was nicer than Tahiti and since Peter knew the island from his previous visit we decided to make landfall there. It was a smooth fast passage with sunrise over the island of Tahiti. The best the South Pacific could offer this sailor. The picture above is Cook’s Bay complete with rainbow. We stayed for two days before setting off for Papeete so Peter could make his flight and I could meet my family coming in from SF. It was a pristine anchorage but the weather had something to be desired. At the end of the bay it rains on and off almost everyday requiring us to constantly button up the boat: which in the tropics means you cook inside. The second factor that made it not a great anchorage was the lack of a breeze adding to the suffering ; so much for paradise.
I had a rather embarrassing mishap before leaving Cook’s Bay. We were having lunch at the Bali Hai Hotel, a landmark on the island. As I was getting back into the dingy to go back to the boat I slipped off the dock in front of about 30 other diners. I tried to be nonchalant and get back into the dingy after having submerged my camera and passport. That’s why I don’t have more pictures for this section. I’d have to wait for my family to bring me a replacement camera.
Our next stop was Marina Taina which is the first full service marina we’d encounter since leaving San Diego. Moorea was where I planned to spend the most time when my family arrived so I’d be back.
We were told by other yachties that Papeete would not be very enjoyable because it was a big dirty city. Nevertheless we needed to change crew, reprovision, pick up my family and at least visit Point Venus. Papeete turned out beating our expectations. Yes it was dirty, noisy and expensive but it had everything we were looking for in terms of provisions and boat parts. We also discovered some great restaurants which is what you’d expect in a place call French Polynesia.
We got the boat cleaned up. Experienced a big blow. We were mostly protected being inside the marina. But we were pushed hard onto the dock with 30 knot winds. Dave saved the boat’s finish when he woke up and noticed a slipped fender. The other boats anchored outside of the marine had a rough night of it with some going adrift. Mother nature always has something up her sleeve. I’m glad we were in a marina for storm.
On of the high points of our visit was getting to see the American Samoa Circus. We had a front row seat for the single ring extravaganza. It turned out being surprisingly good. Most of the performers were Cubans and depending on the act either came from Spain or Brazil. It was good.
The family arrived and Dave jumped ship for the three weeks I’d spend with my family. We saw the required sites on Tahiti and drove around the island.

Then we headed back to Moorea but instead of staying at Cooks Bay we anchored in Bai Opunohu to do some serious chilling ..

For me the biggest hardship of the passage was missing my family. It was a little strange being with them again after all this time. I think it was strange for them as well having to live the life of crew on Present Moment. We all adjusted to the new conditions and enjoyed the sites on Moorea .
The time flew by and before you knew it, it was time for Erin and Sherry to return to the States. Sam would stay on the boat until school started in August. The trip back to Papeete was memorable to say the least. While it was short the seas were steep. Just when Sherry and Erin thought they had found their sea legs after being on the boat for three week they had to deal with confused and rough seas. Mother nature strikes again.
After putting the girls on their flight, Sam and I rejoined Dave back at the boat. We had to wait for the weather to settle before shoving off on June 15th to make the passage to Huahina about a hundred miles west of Tahiti. The weather hadn’t settled as much as we had thought. Seas were 8-10 feet not a great ride and winds were a steady 20 to 28 knots out of ESE. Our top speed was 7.8 knots and conditions were such as we decided to pass Huahina and make for the leeward side of Raiatea. We did the trip in 22 hours ending the passage by picking up a mooring buoy off Raiatea Carenage in 25 knot winds out of the east. We’d spend a week checking out Raiatea and Huahina before meeting Mark Jones on Bora Bora .