September 4, 2008: South Pacific

Malumu Bay, Beqa Island, Fiji (S 18.23.083 E 178.09.092) http://maps.google.com/maps

According to the guide books some of the best diving in Fiji was in the Beqa Islands only some 10 miles from Suva. Its volcanic and rugged and known for its onshore villages that practice firewalking and of course its ofshore dive sites.

All of our destinations are researched with charts, charting software and cruising guides prior to departure. We need to know if there is an anchorage and the quality of the anchorage in order to commit. After entering the fringing reef of Beqa Island (Bengga) off the southern coast of Fiji we easily located Malumu Bay where we intended to anchor overnight. We found what appeared to be a very small resort with no activity and a small pier with an anchored sailboat in their water. We dropped the hook on a small secluded beach across the bay from them but realized it was too risky of an anchorage. We pulled up the hook and headed deeper into the bay. What we discovered was a pristine, undeveloped and unpopulated bay. In effect we were surrounded by lush green hills and flat glassy green water. There were a few locals fishing along the shore but we never saw their village. The stargazing at night was outstanding since there were no city or shore lights. This was by far one of the most peaceful places we'd seen in a long time. These places do exist and we found one.

Unfortunately the water was not that clear so on September 5th we made way to another anchorage on just off Yanuca Island. Compact and beautiful Yanuca is a mass of green hills with a surf camp and lovely beaches.

The water was much clearer unfortunately all the scuba dive centers had gone out of business or were already booked so all we could do was snorkel. While it was a beautiful spot we decided to move on to the Mamanuca Group on the 6th as heavy winds were headed our way.